Old railway bridge-turned-bike path, Yangsu-ri, Yangpyeong
The article courtesy of SEOUL magazine
Swaggering Hongdae hipsters in skinny pants slowly glide past back alley bars on colorful, fixed-gear track bikes. Hardcore halmoni hammer haphazardly along. DJ harabeoji treats passersby to a sampling of old-school trot music blaring from his phone speaker. Weekend warrior ajeosshi parade between makgeolli breaks, showing off their highly individualized titanium mountain bikes. Gaggles of ajumma
flock together during weekdays for neon spandex-clad processions with
their cycling clubs. An occasional one-man parade drifts by with a
continuous wave of his hand while bristling with political regalia –
colorful helmet-mounted pinwheels and artificial flowers. Wayward waygookin of all shapes, colors and sizes roll solo between the groups, each with his or her own story and place to go.
It’s just another day on Seoul’s bike paths. ‘Every time I see an adult on a bicycle I no longer despair for the future of the human race.’
H.G. Wells
Cruising beneath the 63 Building, near Yeouido
Among those who opt to ride bicycles with any sort
of regularity, most will say that there’s nothing else quite like it.
While the slow pace of walking gives you the opportunity to really drink
in your surroundings and experience the sounds, smells and sights along
the way, distance and range are limited by the slow pace. Driving by
motorbike or car allows you to see and experience more sights and a
larger swath of landscape over longer distances, but is less enriching
without the sensory stimulation. Cycling, however, is just right. Riding
a bike allows you to spontaneously slow down and listen to the sounds
of a piano practice spilling out from a second-floor window, stop and
smell the roadside wisteria on a warm spring day or choose to lower your
head and try to beat your fastest time on a 100 km ride. The pastime
offers the perfect balance between scope and focus, speed and sensory
input, breadth and depth of experience. Not only is cycling fun,
healthy and invigorating, it helps save the planet and makes cities and
neighborhoods better places to live.
‘Work to eat. Eat to live. Live to bike. Bike to work.’
Unknown
Old railway bridge, Yangsu-ri
Get out and ride!
Seoul is nothing if not defined by its topography.
Just as the entire country is hemmed in and ordered by jagged peaks,
crenellated ridges and rolling foothills, the concrete and steel of this
modern megalopolis spills out between and around the rugged terrain
surrounding it. Like many countries in Asia, Korea’s mountains put
serious parameters on its staple food – rice – creating rivers that
provide a perennial supply of water used to irrigate lowland rice
fields. Flat, scenic and safe from traffic, these waterways also offer
perfect places to ride bicycles. Whether you’re exploring the city and
its environs or need a fast, practical way to commute to where you are
going, the network of paths along the area’s rivers is a great resource.
Bike infrastructure in Seoul has come a long way
over the last five years, with the government having invested trillions
of won in bike paths and infrastructure in both Seoul and around the
country. The most celebrated route is the Four Rivers Bike Path,
an interconnected series of routes utilizing abandoned railway
alignments and waterways around the country. In Seoul, the main
attraction is the great Hangang River, a confluence of the Namhangang
(South Han River) and the Bukhangang (North Han River). All branches of
the Han offer great cycling routes and interesting places to visit along
the way.
Disused rail tunnel turned-bike path, Yangpyeong
Pedaling practicalities
By combining the subway and bicycle, an infinite
number of riding options begin to open up. Riders can access the
outlying countryside where there are fewer cars and more beautiful
roads, or do one-way rides with a return on the subway. Subways are
always a good contingency to have if you get tired, run out of time or
have a mechanical problem. Most subway lines designate the first and
last car for bicycles, and though bikes are only allowed on the subway
on weekends, it is possible to us some less crowded lines during
off-peak hours.
Rent a bike
Seoul offers free and paid bike rental centers
around town, and the government plans to make even more locations
available in the future. There are over 12 rental kiosks inside the Hangang River park area,
and the city has opened several free, self-serve bike rental places
outside designated subway stations. The city now has over 125
bike-sharing stations in total providing around 3,000 bicycles across
the city. See the map and box on p. 9 for more information.
Buy a bike
As cycling gains popularity, state-of-the art
bicycles are becoming less of a status symbol and more of an affordable
commodity. Korea’s local brand, Lespo, has several entry-level models at
affordable prices, while Giant, a Taiwanese manufacturer, is easily the
best value in Korea. The latter brand makes bikes at every price point,
from budget to full-carbon professional race bikes. Buying a used bike
also makes sense for beginners. Check out Craigslist
(seoul.craigslist.co.kr), or join a local cycling Facebook group to see
who’s selling. For those who are serious about commuting, a decent
folding bicycle with a rack is very useful, as they allow you to ride
the subway anytime and you can bring them anywhere.
Biking along the Hangang River
Stay safe
With over 10 million people in the Seoul
metropolitan area, the bike routes can get busy, especially on weekends.
Aside from a bike helmet, the most important piece of safety equipment
is between your ears. Look ahead, anticipate dangerous situations and
ride defensively. Although the routes are designated and marked as bikes
only, there are many pedestrians crossing and walking along the side of
the paths and children playing nearby. Buy a bell for your bike and use
it often, and don’t be afraid to use your voice to alert people that
you are coming. Accidents on the paths do happen, but with a reasonable
amount of caution, they can be prevented.
Get connected
Most bicycle shops organize weekly group rides and
would be happy to give you information. There is a very active
foreigner bike community in Seoul. Check out Facebook groups such as the
Han River Riders or MTBK. One Saturday a month, there is a group ride
known as Bike Party Seoul that involves an evening party on wheels that
rolls through the city, replete with colorful LED lights,
trailer-mounted sound systems and crazy costumes. Visit their Facebook
page for more information.
Riding forward
Seoul has big plans for the future of cycling.
Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon has built a reputation for being a strong
advocate for bikes, and the government is modeling its future plans on
other bike-friendly cities such as Paris, London, Amsterdam and New
York. To fully reap the true social and environmental benefits of
bicycles, however, people should use them for transportation and
commuting and not just for recreation. Bike commuting reduces traffic
congestion and pollution, makes the city safer and more livable and
helps people be healthier. Today, only 2 percent of the Seoul population
commutes by bike, a statistic the government wants to raise to 10
percent by 2020. While there are many cultural and economic factors that
will make this goal challenging, these won’t stop people from riding
their bikes for fun, freedom and fitness, and that’s the most important
thing.
Sitting riverside, Yangsu-ri
More info
The article courtesy of Seoul magazine
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Date 10/10/2015 |
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